Cloncurry to Lawn Hill NP to Mt Isa

16 May – Cloncurry

Burke's water bottle

We stayed at Wal’s Camp, Cloncurry for two nights, enough time to shop, wash, clean up and see the sights.  The sights included the small local museum at the information station that, amongst other things, detailed the Burke and Wills ill-fated exploration through this region.  Their diary has been typed up and, along with copies of their maps, details their experiences and slow demise.  To do what they did in the times that they did it really shows how talented and tough they were.  In the museum is the actual drink flask used by Burke – interestingly there is another original one in the National Museum of Australia.  There is one in Crazy Clarks too!. 

We also visited the very pretty Chinaman’s Creek Dam and the nearby historic Chinese cemetery.  All-in-all an interesting enough day but to stay another day would have meant that we would have been on the shelves of Crazy Clarks too.  We filled up with fuel at the cheapest servo in town - $1.69 less $0.15c per litre if you bought an original Burke’s water bottle at the local Woolworths for over $100. 

Chinaman's Creek Dam - Cloncurry

17 May - To Lawn Hill National Park

Over 400klm away in the north-west of Queensland is our next target – Lawn Hill - a dream of mine to visit for the last 20+ years.  I was excited to be taking something out of my bucket list rather than to keep putting things in.  We decided to drive straight through avoiding a bush camp half way somewhere along the way. We checked out potential bush camps on the way up in preparation for our return journey out of Lawn Hill.  We travelled the 180klm north on good sealed roads to Burke and Wills Roadhouse.  We again filled up the tank for $1.71 per litre as the cost of fuel in the remote regions we are travelling to requires me to have a blonde wig, a poodle and a red light to pay for it – then again Julie’s here too.....

A flattering photo of Gregory Downs Pub

Turning NNW we travelled on ever diminishing tarmac and ever expanding dirt roads towards Gregory Downs.  Arriving here we again fuelled up the car as well as ourselves by having lunch at the pub.  Fuel was $1.90 per litre and lunch only $16.00.  

After putting in the coordinates for Lawn Hill NP into both TomTom and Nissan GPSs both said turn right and, although neither of them could agree on exactly how far or how long it was to Lawn Hill, both agreed on the direction.  Away we went on totally diminishing tarmac after a few kilometers and onto full dirt, bulldust, corrugated and washed out roads.  Julie meanwhile sat with hardcopy map constantly glancing at the two GPS’s and back again. 

The road to Lawn Hill

After 1.5 hours driving Julie came to the conclusion that the GPSs were going on a holiday all their own and were not going to Lawn Hill at all.  We stopped by a tree on the side of the road and, apart from there being an original Burke’s water bottle lying under it, we worked out we were on the 4WD only track to Riversleigh Station – an additional 54 klm of rough dirt roads on top of the 100klm we were supposed to do. 

Crossing the Gregory River near Riversleigh

We crossed the Gregory River four times with each crossing providing strong warnings about the dangers of crossing it.  At times the van disappeared in the bull dust holes; the corrugations shook the bolts loose on our camp chairs while all the time the sun was blazing in the front windscreen.  We were starting to rue the fact that we never bought some of those original Burke water bottles back in Cloncurry.

Our camp at Adels Grove Camp - Lawn Hill

After an 8 hour trip which included 7.5 hours of driving we arrived at Lawn Hill NP – Adels Grove Campground - an oasis in the middle of the dry floodplains of the Gulf Country.  Here water bubbles out of the limestone rocks to form a permanent pure water source, as it has done for thousands of years.  Aborigines have lived in this area for over 30,000 years with scientists believing this to be the oldest inhabited part of Australia.  After setting up camp and relaxing back in or chairs (with the bolts tightened up) I opened a bottle of Chivas Regal Scotch given to me for my birthday by Mum and toasted her, Burke and Wills, their water bottles, Lawn Hill, the Queen etc etc.  After the long hard drive and so much toast I slept like a baby all night.

18 May - Our first morning at Lawn Hill is sunny and relatively cool for these parts – around 20 degrees.  Off we drove to the National Park 10klm away to get into the walks. 

Lawn Hill - start of walking tracks

The region reminds us of the East/West Macdonnell Ranges near Alice Springs as well as Kings Canyon on the way to Uluru.  Towering red cliffs look down on the gorge with its palm trees and pandanas palms lining the edge of the emerald green river. Freshwater crocodiles, barramundi and archer fish are easily seen.  The archer fish is the one that squirts water at insects above to knock them down and eat.

We did two fine walks – Island Stack Lookout and Wild Dog Dreaming - we looked for Two Dogs but to no avail.  Both walks follow the river and gorge, the first looks down on it all while the second travels along the bottom of the cliffs and passes 3000 year old Aboriginal art and ancient middens filled with mussel shells and bones.  

Island Stack walk- lookout.  Main gorge is centre left.

While up near Island Stack Lookout we looked down into the very clear water below and saw a large (2.3 metre) freshwater crocodile lying still on an underwater rock ready to pounce on a large barramundi feeding under the other side of the rock.  

Looking at the croc

The crocodile was very patient – we weren't and decided to leave before we saw the inevitable outcome.   We're planning to canoe the gorge tomorrow and hope we don’t come across the same crocodile up close.

The croc laying on the rock

We've been tipped off by the staff that we could get phone reception if we walked 15 minute each way from our campsite up Lookout Hill.   So this afternoon we headed off carrying our  Burke's water bottles,  iPhones and iPad and caught up with our emails & the news for the day.   We don't have TV or phone reception in the van and we're staying here for 5 nights.

Lawn Hill NP - Wild Dog Dreaming walk

19 May – Day 2: Lawn Hill NP Gorge paddle. 

We were up early and down at the canoe hire by about 8:15 am.  Launching occurred at 8:25am and the first of many photos was taken at 8:26am.  Being first on the river and through the gorge was a bonus.  We were the ones with the responsibility for disturbing all the wildlife together with the peace and tranquillity of this beautiful place at the start of the day.  Having fulfilled this responsibility we settled back and slowly paddled the emerald green, calcium laden water that flowed through the blood-red cliffs towering above either side.  In stark contrast, white barked snappy gums, growing out of the cliffs, hung on precariously while overlooking this beautiful part of the world.

Lawn Hill Gorge

Paying passengers

Hired help dragging canoe between levels

Engine room

Waterfalls over tufa

Start of Lawn Hill Creek

Archer fish having morning tea with us

Darter

Lawn Hill Gorge - Julie getting her paddle wet just for the photo

Disappointed and relieved we didn't come across a freshwater crocodile, we did however see their sunning spots and slides.  Snapping turtles, cormorants, archer fish and various birdlife did fill our interest and camera lenses. 

Heading for home

The gorge ‘runs out’ after about a kilometre where we encountered numerous 1.5 metre waterfalls flowing over the tufa (calcium build-up over the centuries).  Dragging the canoe up a slide and along outdoor carpeted rocks we then relaunched the canoe and entered the upper reaches of the gorge.  This led us to where the Lawn Hill River starts its life. Again flowing over tufa, the heavily mineral laden waters gush out of a 2klm long narrow flood plain from where  numerous springs create the ultimate source of the river.  As we drifted around all by ourselves, little Grunter fish shared our morning tea with us amongst the purple water lilies sitting on their dish sized floating leaves.  After 10-15 minutes we then retraced our steps (paddle marks) back to the start passing a number of other canoes heading upstream - a total of 6klm of paddling easily fulfilling one of my big bucket list items in Australia and for this trip.

Lawn Hill - roast veges on the campfire.

Arriving home for lunch we rested for the rest of the day – well sort of.  Putting the generator on I did a load of washing after which I collected firewood for dinner, and then dug out some sealant to hopefully close the tiny gaps that let in bulldust through the drivers wheel arch in the van on the way here.  Then I had a rest – well sort of.  Roast vegies in the camp oven was tonight’s dinner option, so I cut up the wood and lit the fire.  Julie brought me a coldie, and for herself, a wine, while we sat back and watched the fire burn from 3 metres away as the day was so hot.  With a nice bed of glowing coals, and with a mild glow ourselves, we roasted the vegies and had dinner around the campfire. After dinner I then did have a rest as we lay back and watched the Milky Way appear before our eyes as the sun set, the heat of the day went and all the flies fell asleep in their little dung heaps for the night.

20 May - Day 3: Lawn Hill NP walks

We were up and away early as the clear blue skies appeared after the orange sunrise of the cool morning.  Today’s 4klm Indarri walk took us to a couple of lookouts overlooking the gorge we paddled along yesterday. 

Upper and lower gorge

We sat perched above the canoe ramp and were entertained by the many confused canoeists trying to work out where to get out and when they finally did so - in the wrong spot – they had to manoeuvre their canoe over additional boulders to get to the start of the proper canoe race.  The sudden awareness that spread over their faces about where they should have comen out was visible even from where we were sitting.  The day warmed quickly and so did we, so by 10:30am we had finished our planned walk and sat and had morning tea at the ranger’s station where the internet was in abundance.  Checking news, weather and emails we then headed home for another relaxing afternoon like I had yesterday.

View above the start of the Gorge

Temperatures at the moment are a very dry 35 degrees during the day and around 18 at night.  Fortunately it cools down quickly when the sun sets making the evenings beautiful.  With no light pollution the night skies are just magic with the Milky Way, the Southern Cross and all the other stars just so bright.  The complete lack of mosquitoes and only a few flies makes for a pleasant change too.

21 May - Day 4: Lawn Hill NP walks

The weather today is the same as earlier days – perfect but very hot mid-afternoon.  We again left early in the morning to start our walks.  Our walking pleasure today was provided to us by  the Constance Range Climb and the Cascades - the latter being our last walk of all the walks in Lawn Hill.  Neither disappointed us. 

Constance Range Climb

Constance Range Climb tracked along the Lawn Hill Creek for a kilometre or so before heading uphill to a circuit walk along the cliffs of Constance Range.  We sat on the cliff edge for quite a while, all by ourselves, overlooking the Gorge, the deep-red escarpments and the floodplain below.  The road into the National Park snaked away the 10klm to our camp below us.  Occasionally the road erupted in dust trails as a 4WD entered the Park. 

Walking the remainder of the loop and, just where it started to descend, we again found a suitable rock under a snappy gum tree to sit and gaze over the Gorge. 

Pulling out our trusty homemade muffins (courtesy of Julie) we had morning tea and drank in the beautiful scenery before descending back to where our car was parked. 

End of Cascades walk

Picking up the trail to the Cascades, we walked further up the Gorge crossing ancient tufa and several old Aboriginal middens (mostly containing mussel shells).  The track ended at the base of the Gorge cliffs at a mirrored pool framed by pandanis palms.  A beautiful spot and a fitting end for our walks in Lawn Hill. 

Midden shells

Returning home we relaxed under the awning during the heat of the day. I fruitlessly hosed the awning, van and ground to try and get some relief from the baking heat. It again was 35 degrees in the shade and in our van. After about 5pm it slowly started to cool down a bit, aided by my two remaining beers.  We had dinner around the campfire although we did sit some distance from it.  After watching the fire and the smoke rising straight up into the still night air we retired for the night.  Tonight was the hottest we have had so far.  At 9pm it was still 29 degrees and the humidity has risen from 32% to 83%.  Tomorrow we head back south again towards Mt Isa.

Wed 22 May - Lawn Hill south

One of many passing road trains

We broke camp early and were away by 8am.  The skies were cloudy in the south and they were moving north during today.  Showers are forecast so we are keen to have the 100klm of dirt and triple road trains behind us before they arrive.  Arriving at Gregory Downs Pub we topped up with enough fuel to safely get us to the Burke and Wills Roadhouse where it is 20c a litre cheaper at $1.71.  All went well with car and caravan, the dust was kept out of the wheel arch and nothing broke loose over the severely corrugated roads. 

After having lunch at the Roadhouse we drove south towards the ominous dark clouds.  The temperature was 38 degrees outside - in 60klm it had dropped to 24 degrees and the showers had started.  We pulled into our bush camp for the night - Terry Smith Lookout 80klm north of Cloncurry.  The camp is high on a ridge and has views over the plains below to the west.  By then the showers had turned to drizzle but we were lovely and dry in our van.  The weather, plus the availability of internet, allowed us to catch up on emails and this Blog.

The van after 250klm of dirt - the photo doesn't do it justice

Road Trains at Burke and Wills Roadhouse and the coming rains

23 May - Terry Smith Lookout (Bush camp) to Corella Dam (Bush camp) via Cloncurry

The rain set in for a while overnight but we had a good site at Terry Smith Lookout with our back (driver’s side) to the rain and wind.  The awning was out giving us a dry area of ground when exiting the van.  The car remained hooked up with the dolly-wheel on to level the van.  We spent a comfortable night in the van with much cooler temperatures and the patter of rain on the roof.

Terry Smith Lookout - bush camp out of Lawn Hill 80klm north of Cloncurry

We woke to clear skies and a car and van well washed of much of the dust that had settled on them over the last week.  While waiting for the awning to dry we walked around the now near empty campground, drinking in the views over the plains below to the distant red range in the distance.  The lookout was named after Terry Smith who, for over 46 years, travelled the road from Cloncurry to the Gulf initially as a truckie and then as a postman.

Travelling south to Cloncurry we had morning tea at our favourite café.  Every time we have been to Cloncurry we have had morning tea here.  Calling into the visitor information station, we filled up with wash water and topped up our drinking water tank for our next bush camp at Corella Dam, about halfway between Cloncurry and Mt Isa. We arrived there around lunch time and picked a site overlooking the dam and the dam wall.  There are 100’s of campsites here with the most popular being those with water views. 

Facing NEWS

Positioning the van is a tug of war between facing it north to catch the sun for the solar panels, facing it east to get the morning sun with our backs to the setting sun, facing it west to turn our back on the biting winds blowing over the dam facing it and south to get views of the dam.  So we faced it NEWS so we could keep to date with current affairs.

Our 2nd full moon of the trip

On our second day here we took a drive to Mary Kathleen, previously a town of over 830 people supporting the now closed open cut uranium mine in the 1950’s and 1980’s. Now the town no longer exists.  The old roads and building slabs are all that remain.  We strolled the old streets, together with the grazing cattle, identifying the shopping precinct and residential streets.  Interesting it is a great place to camp. 

Mary Kathleen town centre

Many old campfires can be seen around the old town and you can have your pick of house slabs to camp on over a huge area.   Given no-one was camped here, we’re not sure if you’re able to but if we come this way again we will call in and check it out.

Corella Dam camp - our van on far right

Returning to camp we relaxed for the rest of the day, watching the myriad of birds feeding around the dam.  Tomorrow we are off to Mt Isa to get the car serviced, to clean the dust out of and off everything and shop in preparation for the next part of our trip – to the Northern Territory.

25 May - to Mount Isa

Just an hours drive today from Corella Dam to Mt Isa.  We didn't leave until 11:00am and arrived at the fully booked out Sunset Van Park.  We will stay here until Tuesday, do the washing, cleaning the car and van of all the red dust and dirt, and of course do the supermarket shuffle.

Sapphire to Winton and Carisbrooke Station to Cloncurry

8 May

In the previous episode we were in Sapphire Caravan Park Retreat, and what a treat it was.  We needed good internet access, cool weather and some considerable time to plan some of next year’s activities.  Sapphire provided this and we were able to break the back of the bookings etc. 

Sapphire Van Park - our camp

Sapphire Van Park-view from our camp

We went out and saw all the sights of Sapphire on our first full day here.  When we arrived back at camp the kettle was still hot enough to have another cuppa without re-boiling it.  The area is awash with fossickers washing tonnes of gravel looking for the precious stones that will fulfil their dreams.  For most it seems, reality and dreams have never met and they continue to live in hope and hovels on their mining leases.  There is not much to Sapphire, a small grocery store, a bottle shop which is literally a tin shed, a few van parks and a 48 hour free camp in the middle of ‘town’.  The free camp is pretty open with flush toilets, drinking water and dump point.  We were pleased to be camped in our van park.

Having used up a lot of our internet allowance, we decided to move on after three lovely nights.  On the day we left the young family (2 adults plus 3 kids) camped beside us were packed up and gone by 4:45am!  They were as quiet as could be in packing up their campervan but we were still woken up by their departure on the crunching gravel surface of the van park as they drove out.  

Morning tea spot 150klm west of Barcaldine

We were on the road by 8:30am ourselves and, on turning west heading towards Longreach, we realised we had a strong tailwind to push us along.  We dropped a litre per 100klm in fuel consumption and had a great drive through Central Queensland, over the Drummond Range to enter into Major Mitchell’s old stomping ground 150 odd years ago.  Through Alpha, Jericho and Barcaldine we were blown. 

Stopping in Barcaldine, just opposite the Tree of Knowledge, the familiar sounds of a country show could be heard.  The lady in the only café open in town confirmed the Barky Show was on, hence the 100’s of 4wd’s and enough white 10 gallon hats to form a lake the size of Sydney Harbour parked in the Saleyards. 

Tree of Knowledge

Tree of Knowledge

The streets were empty except for the dead Tree of Knowledge housed under its magnificent timber shed on the side of the road.  We had the Tree to ourselves as all the dogs were at the Show too.  

Because the tree was killed a few years back when Australia had a budget surplus, it has now been preserved and placed in a display where it originally stood.  With a glass floor around the base, the root system can also be seen suspended below the tree.  The Tree is now an excellent tribute to a part of Australia’s heritage and the start of the Australian Labour Party way back in 1891.

The Tree could only hold our attention for so long so we fuelled up and headed to bush camp for the night at Lloyd Jones Weir located 12klm out of town beside Lloyd Jones Weir.  With drinking water taps, rubbish bins, flush toilets, picnic tables, fire pits and views over Lloyd Jones Weir, the bush camp has it all – including blue green algae.  The place is pretty full but we were lucky to get a site right at one end (our preferred location) beside a picnic table under a ghost gum with views of Lloyd Jones Weir wall and little billabong below it.  The weather remains fine, dry and warm during the day and cool at night – just about perfect really.

Bush Camp at Lloyd JonesWeir

"Grave" near toilet block

Next morning was once again a classic western Queensland sunrise.  We watched the sun rise, through the white-barked river gums that fill the watercourse in front of our camp, waking all the birds and wildlife as well as the millions and millions of flies.  I’d love to know where flies sleep at night so I could go and annoy them all night while they want to rest.  Anyway, to my surprise a pelican flew around above us then came in and landed in the little billabong.  I thought there might have been a letter in his bill from the Gold Coast but not to be.  Given the camp was a little dry and dusty as well as busy (for us) we decide to break camp and continue our journey west. 

Roadside stop on the way to Longreach

The road ahead

The road behind

From Barcaldine, the next main centre is Longreach and having both already been there we decided to push on to Winton and then to Carisbrooke Station Farmstay located 57klm off the road to Lark Quarry.  On the journey, we saw three Australian bustards on the side of the road spread about 100 metres apart – an unusual sighting we believe but we didn't have the cameras handy as we sped by.

Road into Carisbrooke Station

The farmstay is a first for us and Carisbrooke Station is well documented in the region as a good one.  Phoning ahead Penny, the owner, confirmed that they could fit us in on their 25000 hectare property as there was no one else there at the moment. Lunch was in Winton and camp was 100klm south along the road to Lark Quarry.  We had to put latitude and longitude coordinates into both the Nissan and TomTom GPS’s as there are no real addresses out there and we wanted to double check everything, and away we went. 

Going down the Nareen Jumpup

Both GPS’s sent us in the same direction (always a good sign) but we slowly became more and more worried as we drove along desolate, quiet, one lane dirt tracks. Not a human or animal could be seen, except for the flies from Lloyd Jones Weir.  The terrain was flat, gibber coved, treeless dust with a salt bush thrown in every now and then. We drove over and down the Nareen Jumpup and headed towards the horizon. 

Julie relaxes by reading her family tree

The GPS’s eventually died of thirst and were humanely shot, we carried on using something called a hard-copy map and a compass, finally reaching the road we should have been on if we had read the detail in something called ‘instructions’.  We did end up going the shortest route but if anything had gone wrong it was likely that our bones would have been found with those of our GPS’s.  When telling Penny of the way we went she merely raised one eyebrow and choked – on a fly I think from Lloyd Jones Weir.  We are in another fly zone and put on our head nets to be able to walk around in some comfort until they all just disappeared for the night at sunset. 

Our camp - caravan alongside the shearing shed

 Our camp is a kilometre away from the main farm house down beside the shearing shed.  The shed has a camp kitchen, fire pit, good donger toilets and showers, power board and a tap which delivers a mixture of dam and bore water.  The terrain is flat and sparse with stunning views to the jumpups in the distance.  A working sheep and cattle property, the owners have had to add tourism to supplement their income due to the current drought.  They have an airstrip which is well used by the well-healed who fly in for their well-deserved farm stay on the way back from fishing trips in the Gulf.  The previous US President, Lyndon B Johnston (LBJ), forced landed here in WWII when his plane got lost and ran out of fuel – they must have had our GPS’s way back then too.  The Irwin’s from Australia Zoo arrive this evening too.  Apparently they have come here for the last 3 years and they were delighted to hear that we are here too.

The main reason for coming here was to see Lark Quarry – the only place in the world where a dinosaur stampede is recorded and it is all done with fossilized mud.  95 million years ago several hundred Coelurosaurs (chicken sized) and Ornithopods (emu sized) dinosaurs were attacked by a three metre Australovenator wintonensis megaraptor (3 metre scary sized) on a river bank.  3300 footprints have been frozen in time showing how the attack occurred.  The detail captured clearly shows how some of the dinosaurs slipped in the mud, turned to run towards their attacker and the giant steps taken by the ‘big one’ in the chase.  

Lark Quarry dinosaur stampede - a couple of large footprints and many smaller ones

Flocking Brolgas

The drive from Carisbrooke Station takes an hour and 15 minutes on dirt roads, bulldust and corrugations.  Kangaroos, brolgas, budgerigars, finch and cattle are common sightings with the elusive bitumen road appearing for only a couple of kilometres where needed over the jumpups.  Last time I was here you could just wander around the raised boardwalk under a weatherproof cover above the stampede whenever and for as long as you liked for free.  Now there are only three viewings a day with a guide at a cost of $12 per person.  It still remains a highlight for me to actually stand and look down on perfectly captured 95 million year old dinosaur footprints.    After the tour, we walked around the area through the spinifex for half an hour looking at the landscape and the area where dinosaurs definitely roamed.  The temperature was more than 10 degrees cooler than the same time yesterday and the wind had come up so we were actually quite cold during this time.

Our campfire lighting up the night sky

Returning home the rain from down south arrived.  It wasn’t supposed to but it didn’t know that.  The surface of the roads became a little wet and sticky, while underneath the dust was still alive and kicking.  The car was a lovely patchwork of red and black mud spray with a lovely dusting of dust.  The heavier rain later in the afternoon washed most of it off. 

Our first night we had the place to ourselves.  With millions of stars above us, a campfire in front of us and a few drinks inside of us, we sat back and enjoyed the peace and serenity.

The reason why we decided to come here was on the advice of a couple in the Sapphire Van Park who said it looked good.  They were due to arrive a day after we did - which they did.  The owners contacted them due to the rain and sent them along their private road which has far less black soil and 40klm shorter.  They still had to stop five times to clear the caked in van wheel arches of mud so that they could continue slipping and sliding across the road at times.  Shortly after they arrived the rain stopped and the clouds parted just a little.  I lit the campfire about 5pm and we all sat around until just after 9pm when a little sprinkle of rain forced us inside.  

Richard and Sue were the couple who come from Victoria Point in Brisbane.  Recently retired and temporarily relieved of babysitting duties they are on a three week tour with their little dog.  They are a lovely couple who, up until now, have never had their van off-road.  Given their unexpected experiences getting in here in the rain and mud, they are now more confident in taking their rig off-road.

Overnight the clouds continued to part and the day dawned with cloudy skies but no rain. 

Sunrise at Carisbrooke Station looking out from next to our caravan

The owner, Penny, came and saw us and told us to go out via their private road.  We had no trouble although it was 14klm of 4wding over muddy roads and up a steep jumpup.  Once up over the jumpup the black soil disappeared and we easily travelled the 40klm of dirt before hitting Mr McAdam’s most wonderful invention – the bitumen road. 

Some of Arno's Wall

Arno's Wall

Stopping in Winton again we had morning tea then went to Arno’s Wall located beside the North Gregory Pub where Waltzing Matilda was first performed and then on to the world’s first musical fence beside the airport where QANTAS first flew into.  A day of world class firsts was had by both of us, a first for us.

Winton's Musical Fence Conductor

"ANIMAL" at the Musical Fence

Heading north-west, we travelled around 160klm to the Combo Waterhole – the billabong where the events took place that form the story of Waltzing Matilda written by Banjo Paterson. 

Combo Waterhole plaque

Combo Waterhole with eucalypt branch in hand to frighten the flies

Walking to the actual billabong requires each participant to carry 87 flies on their back, a further 7 in our mouths but only one at a time and only for a very short time, plus several occurrences of a fly unexpectedly entering any remaining orifice available and unprotected for more than 2-3 seconds.  We found a small leafy eucalypt branch was good for swatting and by the time I got back to the van I knew I had become addicted to self-flagellation. We toyed with the idea of bush camping here but the risk of becoming flyblown and having to be crutched by a shearer turned us off – at least this time.  If the shearer would have offered to hit me with a leafy eucalypt branch I might have stayed.

Off we drove back along the 8klm of dirt road to the highway, turned left and travelled the 20klm to the small town of Kynuna and to their van park behind the pub.  Very basic but very welcoming little van park, we spent a nice night here having a great pub meal with a couple of retired farmers from Victoria. 

Kynuna Camp at the back of the Blue Heeler hotel

Again we have no TV or internet or phone connection which is basically the story of our trip – and we really wanted to hear the Federal budget as it was handed down tonight!

Another couple next to us are on their way to Broome from Newcastle with 10 push bikes and all the luggage and spares in a specially designed Jayco van which has an enormous rear boot  for all the gear.  When they arrive in Broome they then hand over the car and van in Broome to a support crew who will be flying in with the other nine riders then the ten of them will cycle to Cap Leeuwin at the bottom of Western Australia.  On top of this, the car and van aren’t his and he has never towed a van before.  He doesn’t know how half the stuff works.  The people we meet and the stories we hear makes for a very interesting trip.

Two brolgas for breakfast

Next morning we had two brolgas for breakfast, then packed up and headed to Cloncurry where we are now.  The funniest thing was that Julie didn't realise the birds were outside the van door and the best thing was that I was able to capture her face as she came face-to-face with these metre high birds.  Look carefully at the photo on the left.
Wal's Campground is a little basic van park out the back of Cloncurry, away from the highway and its many triple bogey semitrailers filled with beef cattle roaring past.  We will stay here two nights to ready ourselves for the next part of our trip up to Lawn Hill National Park. 

All continues to go well for us.  The van and car are going great and the lifestyle is even better.  There seems to be a direct correlation with the price of fuel and latitude.  In little Kynuna we paid $1.53c and up here it is $1.69c.  This will make for an expensive 800klm journey to Lawn Hill.

Keep those emails coming too, we love them.  So far we have received one since we have been away.  Its great to keep up to date with everyone.  We are looking forward to the next one-any day now..... and don't forget our email address is jdhjmh@gmail.com.