Contos Field to Esperance

Monday 26 August – Contos Field to Manjimup via Nannup

Many of the towns in this region end with the suffix 'up'.  In case you were wondering, up means 'place of' and comes from the local aboriginal Noongar tribe.  For example the town of Nannup stands for 'stopping place' or 'place of parrots' (this is true).  This must be why when my Mum's (Nann Nann's) grandchildren visit her they are offered crackers.

The weather has turned decidedly wet, windy and cold.  It is amazing how a lack of sunshine for a couple of days dulls our perception of what are really nice places to visit.  It is late winter and the south-west of WA is renowned for this type of weather this time of year.  Leaving the Margaret River Region we headed north east via the Blackwood River NP travelling through great stands of karri and jarrah timber stopping in the picturesque tulip town of Nannup for brunch. 

The weekend before last was Nannup’s tulip festival and the town was still filled with gardens and pots of multi-coloured tulips.  

Templemore Cafe

We had brunch at the quaint Templemore Café.  The lady owner was really friendly and the food was home-made and wonderful. 

Still travelling through timber forests and dairy and grazing lands we passed through the timber town of Bridgetown and on to Manjimup, our base for the next three nights.

Tuesday 27 August – Day 2 Manjimup

 

Manjimup Van Park

Our van park was all but empty because this time of year the weather is cold, wet and windy and all the locals are warm, dry and becalmed up in Broome. We woke up to a cold, wet and windy day which wasn't a surprise, given the time of year.








Today was karri forest day or Big-Wood Day.  We spent it visiting National Parks of Beedelup and its falls, D’Entrecasteaux and its cape, Gloucester and its cascades and Warren and its very tall karri and marri trees.  The karri trees grow up to 90 metres tall and a number are used as fire watch towers.  Three are open to the public and to get to the top is, depending on the tree, a 60-75 metre climb up steel bars inserted into and around the trunks of these giant trees.  We saw and “climbed” the 75 metre Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree which is adorned with a two tonne fire tower at the top.  In high winds it sways 1.5 metres each way (that’s 3 metres in total). 

The Bi-centennial Tree

Jeff climbing back down

Julie climbing back down

Us at the top

The trees shouldn't be climbed if it’s raining or wet.  We had to wait about 45 minutes before the winds strengthened and the rain set in enough before we walked to the base of the tree, looked up and decided it was too wet and windy to do the climb.  It looked like it was starting to clear so we left quickly before it became safe to climb.  We then visited the totally timber town of Pemberton for brunch then onto Beedelup Falls. 

Beedelup Falls swing bridge

'On' the Bibbulmun Track

The Bibbulmun Track (pronounced Bibbulmun) is a fantastic walking track that stretches from Albany in the south-east to Perth, some 1000 klm.  At all ionic places we visit around this area, invariably we end up crossing the Bibbulmun track.  It is very well signposted with an aboriginal art snake and the tracks are of high quality and take the walker to all the ‘must sees’ in the south-west of WA.  On a number of times we ended up walking the track for short distances.

Wednesday 28 August – Day 3 Manjimup 

Today the weather was a bit less, but still, cold, wet and windy – still typical for this time of year.  Continuing our big-wood theme, we visited more National Parks, starting with One Tree Bridge and Four Aces Karri trees then Fonty's Pool which was closed then on to the Gloucester Tree lookout tower (again it was too wet and windy to climb), then Pemberton, where Julie got stuck into the local delicacy of marron for lunch. 

One Tree Bridge

The Four Aces are four 85 metre high 300 year old karri trees that have grown in a straight line.  It has been established the straight line was caused by four seeds germinating in a decaying fallen karri log.  Each tree will grow to 90 metres high, drink 170 litres of water per day, produce 1 kg of honey per season, weigh in at 200 tonnes and live for 400 years.  It will take 9 adults holding outstretched hands to reach around its girth.  It was a pity that it was too windy and threatening rain otherwise we would have climbed each one of them before we returned home - maybe next time!

 

Four Aces

Travelling via Northcliffe we headed south for a quick visit to the coast at Point D’Entrecasteuax and Windy Harbour.

Many restaurants, caravan parks and attractions are closed until 1^st September due to the lack of tourists.  Visiting places and open cafes or restaurants is really enjoyable.  Most often we are the only ones there.  Caravan parks are all but empty and the region is nice and quiet.  The rain, wind and cold keeps away the tourists and chases away the locals.  I would say that by the end of September everyone will come out of their hibernation and the place will come alive.  Until then we are enjoying the peace and quiet.

Fallen Karri Tree

Trying some of the local delicacies

Thursday 29 August - Manjimup to Walpole via Shannon NP

We're on the move again, this time travelling to Walpole on the south coast, via Shannon NP.  The weather was still a little cold, wet and windy which apparently is typical for this time of year.

 

Great Forest Drive

Near Shannon NP is the Great Forest Drive, a dirt road that winds its way through tall forests.  At places of interest along the drive there is a sign telling us turn on our car radio and tune into FM100 where we could listen to old timers telling stories of the region we were driving through as well as commentary about the history and facts of what we are observing.  This was a lovely drive.  We stopped under tall trees to enjoy morning tea in Shannon NP campground.  

Morning tea stop - Shannon NP

Shannon NP

Julie on the Tree Top Walkway

After checking in at the Walpole van park, we headed off for more Big Wood to Walpole-Nornalup NP and the Walpole Wilderness Area to visit the famous Walpole Wilderness Discovery Centre and Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk.  Fortunately it wasn’t too windy or wet so the Tree Top Walk could take us 40 metres into the treetops of a karri and marri forest.  Nearby, back on ground, a well-defined path introduced us to the giant Tingle Trees.  

Tree Top walk

We then found Swarbrick, home of some of the oldest trees in Australia and the giant 39 metre long "Wilderness Wall of Perception" and public artwork in the forest.

Swarbrick Wilderness Wall of Perception

First in line to get in

Swarbrick Wilderness Wall of Perception

Catching feathers in the forest

Halo effect

Friday 30 August - Day 2 Walpole

Driving to Peaceful Bay we walked to the local lookout then drove along a good dirt road to Conspicuous Cliff and Conspicuous Beach in Walpole-Nornalup NP.   The infrastructure throughout the National Parks in most of Western Australia is really first rate with good signage, tracks, boardwalks, pit toilets, picnic tables etc. The southern National Parks generally offer firewood too and some of it can be burnt.

 

Conspicuous Cliffs

We then went on to the Giant Tingle Tree ..... 

Stand of Red Tingle Trees

'The' Giant Tingle tree

and the very interesting Circular Pool ....

Circular Pool - naturally formed foam being blown in the wind

where someone had fun with the sign ...

before heading home via a short drive around the Bluff overlooking our own Coalmine Beach and Nornalup Inlet.   The weather was ratty with winds and rain however we managed to mostly dodge the rain and had a very enjoyable day.

Saturday 31 August – Walpole to Albany via Denmark

Leaving Walpole we enjoyed a pleasant drive to Albany, albeit windy. High winds were forecast and the forecasters were right.  76 klm winds made towing a caravan a little difficult but fortunately the wind was mostly blowing over our left shoulder.  The big worry was the danger from falling branches and trees.  A number of small branches went flying past us just missing the car.  Leaf and branch litter slowly started to fill the sides of the roads.  The wind kept getting stronger and stronger as we drove.  We had to stop for two trees that had closed the road. Arriving at Albany with no damage, we set up camp at Middleton Beach and sat out the wind.

 

Trees across road

Late afternoon we emerged from our van and went for a walk along the beach in front of the van park.  The offshore wind was so strong it all but stopped the 6 foot waves from breaking.  All through the night the wind blew, shaking the van and us awake.  Finally in the early morning the wind abated and we woke to a clear day.  

Sunday 1 September – Day 2 Albany

Thanks to the high winds, the swell was running at 6-7 metres making for a truly spectacular sight along the open coastline around Albany.  To the west of Albany are numerous natural attractions in the Tornidirrup NP including Natural Bridge and The Gap, Blowholes, Salmon Pools, and Jimmy Newhills Harbour.  

Raging surf near Albany

Incoming swell  ...... 

The Gap gave us the most spectacular experience.  With us perched on a viewing platform 25 metres above the ocean, the huge waves exploded up from the carved granite channel below sending water 30+ metres above us and just a metre away from us.  Fortunately the strong wind was blowing over our backs sending the torrents of seawater away from us.  For one group the wind let them down and in an instant they were drenched and laughing at the experience.

..... and it explodes out of the end of  the channel

Below is a video of the waves ...

In Albany we also visited the Brig Amity, a replica of the ship that in 1826 arrived in Albany from Sydney to settle the area.   

Monday 2 September – Day 3 Albany

Yesterday we did the western highlights of the region around Albany.  Today we drove east into Waychinicup NP and looked around this very pretty area visiting Norman’s Beach, Betty’s Beach and Two Peoples Bay.  We then drove back through suburban Albany for a little supermarket shuffle and a haircut for me.

Shelley Beach

Betty's Beach and some wildflowers

Two Peoples Beach - but only one could be in the photo.

Another good sign

Tuesday 3 September – Albany to Stirling Range NP via Porongurup NP

Within 100 klm north of Albany lie the Porongurup and Stirling Ranges. The region is renowned for its great walks and unique wildflowers.  This year the wildflowers are out later than usual for reasons we are yet to find out.  We have seen many however they aren't fully in bloom.

Top of Skywalk

Julie just tidying up a few loose rocks on the way up

Our plan today was to head to the Stirlings for a bush camp.   On the way we stopped at Porongurup NP for an almost 2 hour bush walk up through karri, marri and wildflower forests to the Granite Skywalk. With its panoramic views from the 38 metre upper and lower lookouts atop Castle Rock we could see for miles.  The climb up was a bit tricky and involved a vertical ladder clamber at the end.

Part of the climb up

Views from the Lookout

After this wonderful walk we drove further north to Stirling Range NP for our bush camp at Moingup campground ready for tomorrow’s planned walk up Bluff Knoll, the highest peak in the south west of WA.  The weather remains windy and a little wet and cold overnight getting down to 7-8 degrees in the mornings. 

Julie is getting a bit obsessed with trying to visit as many National Parks as possible from our book called Explore Australia’s National Parks.  For each state, it has a number of “feature parks” which are described in some detail and a larger number of “other parks” which are described in lessor detail.  For Western Australia, the book includes 13 feature parks and 23 other parks and by the time we leave WA, Julie hopes we will have visited 11 of the feature parks and 11 or 12 of the other parks. She’s only started focusing on this over the past few weeks because the number of sensational National Parks in south-western WA is remarkable.

Wednesday 4 September – Day 2 Stirling Range National Park camp

The rain kept on all afternoon and overnight.  It was cold and windy outside but our van was dry and relatively warm.  Early morning the rain stopped and we woke to clear skies and 8 degrees.

Today’s goal was Bluff Knoll a 650 metre gain in height over a distance of 3.1 klm and listed as one of the top 25 walks in Australia.  On 16 August, snow fell on the top of Bluff Knoll which on occasions has had falls of over 20 centimetres.  We left camp at 8.30am and arrived at the start of the walking trail 20 minutes later. 

Start of walk - summit in clouds above

Just a nice photo looking towards summit

Arriving at the summit

The view

On the down with views over Stirling Range

The walk is pretty tough traversing the side of Bluff Knoll over shale and uneven track with high step ups a lot of the way.  The wind towards the top was bitingly cold.  Any exposed skin started ‘burning’ with the cold.  We were hot from the steep climbing but near frozen from the wind chill.  After two hours we reached the summit and were rewarded with 360 degree views.  After about 30 minutes at the summit, where we had morning tea, we headed back down which was somewhat easier than walking up and took about an hour and a half.

... and back down again

Stirling Range campsite - tents in background are the two blokes hiking

Returning to camp we rested for a couple of hours then wandered over to talk to a couple of 30-35 year old fellas camped in tents near us.  They are both from Perth and have been friends since year 8.  They have been camped here for 9 days and have climbed the 6 highest peaks in the Stirling Range.  One of them leaves tomorrow to hike 100 klm, via the Porongurups, to Albany to then do the 980 klm Bibbulmun walking trail ending up near Perth.  The other is getting in his car and driving back to Perth – the second one is sensible.

Thursday 5 September – Stirling Range to Esperance

We drove over 400 klm through grain and feed country to our van park overlooking the ocean at Esperance.  For 100’s of kilometres the fields were filled with the bright yellow flowers of ripening canola.

Arriving in Esperance we jagged a great site with ocean views in the van park.

Esperance - our van park on the other side of the jetty centre of picture

Friday 6 September – Day 2 Esperance

Today was one of those perfect days with clear skies and a light breeze – not too common occurrence in Esperance this time of year.  We drove the Great Ocean Drive along the beautiful coastline around Esperance that overlooks the Recherche Archipelago with its 105 islands.  We stopped at Rotary Lookout, Blue Haven Beach, Salmon Beach, Twilight Beach (voted the best beach in WA in 2005), Observatory Point, Ten Mile Lagoon (nudist beach) and Pink Lake Lookout before lunch at the Taylor Street Jetty café.

West Beach - Esperance

Looking towards Frenchman's Peak (left) campsite
later in the week  - West Beach - Esperance

Twilight Beach - Esperance

Talkative bird - Observatory Point - Esperance

 

Not-so-Pink Lake - Esperance

Saturday 7 September – Day 3 Esperance

The beautiful weather of yesterday disappeared overnight as the showers set in.  The poorer weather was forecast so today was set aside for washing, supermarket shuffle and resting, getting ready for three days of bush camping tomorrow and the Election Result telecast tonight. An exciting day was had by all.

Sunday 8 September – Day 4 Esperance

Cape Le Grand, 55 klm away, was the target today as the weather forecast was favourable with only a couple of showers and light winds – that was yesterday’s forecast.  This morning the forecast was completely different – rain all day and storms, 60+ klm winds with a temperature range of 12 -16 degrees.  So we booked for another night at Esperance, turned on the heater , the TV, the computer and anything else to keep us entertained.  We will have another go at Cape Le Grand tomorrow when the weather is better - hopefully.

Monday 9 September – Esperance to Cape Le Grand NP

What a difference a day makes down here.  The weather cleared up and warmed up so we travelled the short drive to the beautiful Cape Le Grand NP  where we set up camp beside the beach.  

Cape Le Grand campground (right)

After we set up we went for a walk up to the nearby viewing platform, then along the beach and then, to my dismay, through the rest of the campground.  It was this last bit of walking that produced another 30 minutes 'work' as Julie found a better site with views of the granite mountains surrounding us and glimpses of the ocean.  So we did a basis pack up and moved 60 metres down the road to our new campsite.  

Beach in front of camp - Cape Le Grand

Dead Emu washed up on beach

We had an early lunch then headed off to climb Frenchman’s Peak with its huge walk-through cave at its summit and outstanding 360 degree views of the National Park.  The walk is very steep with the 3 klm distance estimated to take 2 hours return - it took us two hours.  We called into Hellfire Beach on the way home.  This beach was nothing less than beautiful.  White sands, 3 foot rolling surf, rocky headlands all complemented by clear blue skies and warm weather.  What a beautiful spot!

Julie found the climb pretty easy going ......

Ta da!

Views from summit

Frenchmans Peak Summit

Inside cave at the top of Frenchmans Peak

Hellfire Beach

Tuesday 10 September – Day 2 Cape Le Grand NP

Today was all about seeing the rest of the National Park so we headed off to Lucky Bay and did a return walk over the granite headlands to Thistle Cove.  

Lucky Bay to Thistle Cove walk

Returning to Lucky Bay we walked most of the length of the beach with its white, squeaky fine sand and beautiful coastline.  

Lucky Bay

Lucky Bay 

Lucky Bay from lookout

The drive to Rossiters Beach further on ended up being a waste of time as it was blown out and not particularly attractive.   Next was Thistle Cove which was spectacular with its Whistling Rock and easy walking rocky headland.  The Cove is named after John Thistle, Master of the Cutter, HMS Investigator, who was lost at sea in 1802 with others from Matthew Flinders' crew.  

Thistle Cove

So that was end of Cape Le Grand sightseeing.  We spent a lovely night around camp as the weather was comparatively mild allowing us to sit outside until sunset.

Tonight's sunset from our camp

Wednesday 11 September - Cape Le Grand to Esperance

We packed up and arrived back in Esperance before 10am and checked into the Seafront Caravan Park again.  This is a great park with large shady sites right on the waterfront.  

Tomorrow we head off across the Nullarbor so today was all about washing clothes, car and caravan, shopping and generally getting everything shipshape for the next phase of our trip.

We are both well and car and van are too.

Sign at Cape Le Grand

The Ends