Thursday 11 July – Barn Hill
Station
Leaving one of our favourite bush
camps so far, Quondong Point, we travelled the 50 klm back into Broome to check
on mail, top up shopping and fuel then headed south to go to Barn Hill only
around 140 klm away. We had to stop at roadworks on the way out of Broome and the signage on Wickedcamper stopped in front of us kept us amused.
Road into Barn Hill |
Turning west off
the Northern Highway we travelled the relatively good dirt road for 10 klm to
arrive at the pretty and very busy Barn Hill Station Caravan Park. We jagged a powered site right at the front
of the park overlooking the red cliffs and ocean beyond.
I connected up to the water and
power which was followed by several trips back to the power box after the power
kept tripping off. After speaking to our
neighbour I was informed the power is only 4amps (instead of 15amps) so that it is insufficient to
run anything with a heating element. Our
hot water system, kettle, microwave and air conditioner were all banned
substances for our time at Barn Hill.
Our hot water system is gas or electric so I switched it over to gas so
we could have showers and hot washing up water. Having hot shower water was a good outcome as the amenities block here are a little
different – they have absolutely no roof/ceiling/overhang or anything else that
provides overhead protection of any sort.
All sounds, scents and singing go up and out all around the park. I assume that one carries an umbrella and waterproof toilet paper and soap to the
toilet and shower when it is raining.
With the van set up we set off down the red cliffs onto the wide beach out front. We walked for a couple of hours along the beach timing our return to coincide with yet another beautiful orange sunset over the ocean. Like Broome, this event is enhanced by enjoying ones favourite drink while waiting for the inevitable sinking of the sun into the Indian Ocean around 5.35pm. Whilst we didn’t have a drink ourselves we still drank in the beautiful event with the many people gathered with us. The following are some photos from Barn Hill:
Friday 12 July to Sunday 14 July -
80 Mile Beach
Leaving Barn Hill we set sail
south again travelling a couple of hundred kilometres before turning right
again and travelling another 10 klm over good dirt road to 80 Mile Beach
Caravan Park. Knowing we wouldn't get
a powered site due to the school holiday crowds we took an unpowered site and
were placed one row back behind the sand dunes – just perfect. We have tap water and a large perfectly
grassed site. The weather remains
beautiful with balmy days, cool nights, light winds and cloudless skies – just
as it has been for most of this trip since Wyndham.
We booked for two nights,
extended by another and could have easily stayed a week. The combination of great beach walks, beautiful
weather and a little local community of friendly campers around us made for one
of those classic beach-side holiday atmospheres.
Each night eleven of us would gather after dinner at Ian and Barb’s
annex for a hilarious game of 30 year old Trivial Pursuit, Boys v’s Girls. During the day we would catch up around the
campsites swapping travel stories and ideas and stirring the other team about
how bad they were. Long walks on the
beach each morning were rewarded with unusual shells and beautiful views. Lots of large thread-fin salmon are being
caught along the beach as well as numerous sharks and large sting rays. It is not a place for swimming here.
There is no phone or internet
connection here except intermittent phone reception sometimes late afternoon or
late at night. To obtain this requires
the right timing and to stand on the highest rock on top of the sand dunes in
front of the van park. Space is at a
premium when the signal arrives. On
Friday sometime a message came through to call Amy’s partner, Jamie. When I finally got through some hours later,
I was overjoyed to find out that Jamie was asking me for Amy’s hand in
marriage. Through the static, I think he
heard that I couldn't be happier as next day there were multiple messages on my
phone from Amy and when I finally got through she filled me in on the proposal
and her excitement was contagious. We’re
so happy for them.
Monday 15 July 2013 - Albert
Tognolini Lookout
Leaving 80 Mile Beach this
morning was sad as we said goodbye to the lovely people we had met and friends
we had made over the last three days.
Handshakes and hugs over with, we headed off with hula dancing and
waving going on in our rear view mirrors.
We will certainly catch up with at least one couple from the group, Ian and Barb,
as they live just 10 minutes from us on the Gold Coast and are due to return
home much the same time as we are.
260 klm south of us is Port
Hedland, a very busy and large mining port.
Tourists are not at all well catered for here and van parks charge $50
per night for sites with no shade and all bitumen surface. We stopped here for food and fuel and headed
off at noon towards Karijini NP in the Hamersley Ranges.
The road to Karijini is very sparse as far as
bush camps go although we had three options in our sights. The first one was empty and close to the
road, the second (Bea Bee) was good, down a sand track beside a dry river bed with
just one caravan in, whilst the third was just right.
Albert Tognolini Lookout is located 17 klm
south of the Auski Roadhouse, the last fuel stop before Karijini. Perched high up along a ridge, the lookout
has spectacular views over the iron laden ruby red mountains covered in golden spinifex. Given we didn’t arrive until
4.30 pm we were expecting the worst as far as site selection was concerned, however
we jagged a great site on a little ridge jutting out into the valley. With 270 degree views of the scenery below,
we set up camp, got out the chairs, put dinner in the oven to cook, cracked the
top off a beer and a bottle of champagne, toasted family and friends, all of
whom we wished were here to experience this with us (but you would have to find
a camp somewhere else) and realised that this was living.
As expected, the sun again set in the west this time creating a silhouette of the ghost gum tree located just behind our camp. The stars came out, the beer glass emptied; our dinner was cooked so inside we went after a long but rewarding full day of travel.
Tuesday 16 July – Day 1 Karijini
NP
Up early to watch the sun rise
over the eastern range at our Albert Tognolini Lookout campsite, we set up our
chairs and had breakfast as the morning sun started to flood the valley below
us. The yellow coloured spinifex carpeting the deep red iron laden ranges
slowly lit up under the clear blue sky above.
This bush camp has been one of the most picturesque we have had on this
trip.
Site 51 Kangaroo Loop - Karijini |
Karijini has two sightseeing
areas in a T shape. We are camped at
Dales Campground with Dales Gorge just 400 metres away. At one end is Fortescue Falls with Circular
Pool about 1 klm at the other end. Day
one we did a three hour walk along the ridge looking down into the Gorge. We have already decided to extend our planned
2 night stay into a 3 night stay. There
is absolutely no phone or internet reception so by the time we leave we will
have been over 3 days without contact with the outside world.
Wednesday 17 July – Day 2
Karijini NP
Up early and dressed for a solid
walk, we spent 3.5 hours in Dales Gorge going up and back. We arrived so early we had both Fortescue
Falls and Circular Falls to ourselves. The sky was cloudless, the temperature was
moderate, and a cool wind kept us very comfortable as we explored Dales Gorge from one end to the other and back again with a short trip to Fern Pool at the
end.
Thursday 18 July – Day 3 Karijini NP
Flooded track to Handrail Gorge |
Knox Lookout |
Weano Gorge - Kirijini NP |
Oxer Lookout |
Most of the other walks we’ve done over the past three days have been Class 3 or 4 walks so this was quite a bit more challenging particularly once we left the marked track to inch our way along a very narrow ledge above the water just a few metres below. We were rewarded by standing in the base of the cathedral like plunge pool with the waterfall tumbling down the rocks in front of us. We felt quite exhilarated by the end of the days walk and returned back home for a late lunch.
Joffre Gorge - almost to the waterfall |
Lonely Planet states that
Karijini NP is “arguably one of WA’s most magnificent destinations” and we can
support that sentiment.
Friday 19 July – Karijini to Tom
Price
Leaving Karijini, we travelled to
Mt Bruce (Punurrunha) lookout. Mt Bruce
is WA’s second-highest mountain because there is another mountain higher. Below us was one of the numerous mines in this region with a kilometre long iron ore train lumbering past us. Given
we had plenty of time for our short (110 klm) drive to Tom Price we pulled into a roadside stop signed as a photo opportunity. It turned out to be very unusual in that it was basically a large
circle of memorial stones on top of a hillock overlooking the Pilbara
plains. The stones were ordinary rocks
containing various messages about departed loved ones. Initially we thought the place was badly graffitied but a close look showed how special this place was for so many people.
Nameless Mountain - Tom Price |
Nameless Mountain - Tom Price |
The wind started howling through the
rigging over night (aka caravan awning) so we were both up during the middle of the night in
the cold (5 degrees) taking in washing then putting the awning away.
This morning we drove the 70 klm, including
30 klm of dirt, road to Hamersley Gorge and walked a short way to a stunning
gorge with a small waterfall and enticing pool.
The waves in the rock formations tell of turbulent times in the past as
the rock wall of the gorge formed and reformed over the last 2500 million years.
Once back at the van we finished off our chores
including trying to rid ourselves, the van and the car of the red dust and soil
which permeates everything.
Our plan is to start heading towards the coast from here, some 650 kilometres away. It will take an overnight stay somewhere before we head into Cape Range NP, south of Exmouth. The distances between things to see is quite staggering up here.
We both remain healthy and are still enjoying our time on the road.